Tuesday, May 11, 2010

What Needle Shall I Pick??

It is always exciting starting a new project, the thrill of trying new patterns and playing with new yarn. We've all experienced that moment of anticipation, fingers twitching to cast on, but there is one thing standing in your way; the gauge swatch. DA NA!!!! (that doesn't sound as dramatic when I type it out instead of singing it)
I thought before we can really start with the fun part of our knit-along, it is best to start with the practical stuff, a gauge swatch. One of the most difficult things to explain to new knitters is the importance of gauge. The size needle to use for a given yarn or pattern depends on the person knitting it, which is a strange concept. I get a lot of 'oh but the pattern says' and 'the label on the yarn said' at my shop when people ask about needle size. To really explain the importance of gauge, I think I should introduce you to Jasper and Lizzie.
Jasper (gray bear on the right) and Lizzie (brown bear on the left) are two of our friends from the bear knitting class. These days they like to hang out around the shop to teach people about gauge. The interesting thing about Jasper and Lizzie is they are identical; same number of stitches, same number of rows, same same same. BUT... Jasper was knit out of a bulky yarn on a size 10US needle, while Miss Lizzie was knit out of a sport weight yarn on a size 3US needle. So imagine, you are supposed to be knitting a sweater with a yarn and needle like Lizzie, but you use a yarn and needle like Jasper. Suddenly, that cute little summer top will now be a perfect fit for the Jolly Green Giant! This is of course an extreme case of a gauge problem, but the same concept it true even on a different scale. So let's talk about this in terms of our pattern, Tappan Zee Cardigan.
The gauge listed on the pattern is 5 stitches to the inch, meaning that the width of five stitches should measure one inch. Let's use my sweater as an example, I'll be knitting the third size with a finished measurement of 40". After shaping the top of the sweater, the main body of the sweater is knit over 201 stitches. And, utilizing our division skills, 201 stitches divided by 5 stitches to the inch, equals 40"!!! So as long as my gauge is correct, my sweater will fit correctly. But say I knit very tightly and my gauge is coming out to 6 stitches to the inch. That same 201 stitches divided by six stitches means my sweater will only be 33.5" and way too small for me.
This is all the REALLY long way of saying, you have to make sure that the needle and yarn you are using give the same gauge that is listed in the pattern to make sure your finished item will fit! So let's take a look at my gauge swatch in the photo here (luckily I was at a wedding this weekend and have a lovely manicure!). You pattern will tell you what stitch to use when checking gauge. Most of the time it will be over stockinette stitch, but be careful if gauge is listed over pattern stitch - this may happen in patterns involving lace or cables. For my swatch, I cast on 25 stitches and knit sections with three different size needles, placing a purl ridge between each section. I did this so I could accurately see which needle gave the closest match to the gauge listed in the pattern. In this particular case, my gauge was closest on the middle section, using a size six needle. Which means... I'm ready to cast on!!
One other random thought on gauge before we move on... When looking at gauge, also consider the quality of the knitted fabric. If my gauge is correct, but the fabric is too tight it may be too stiff and uncomfortable when it is finished. Or, if it is too loose you may loose the structure and shaping from a textured pattern. This is why you have to consider an appropriate yarn AND needle for your pattern.
So now that I've successfully completed my gauge swatch, I get to cast on!! Of course after all that work, knitting seven rows of garter stitch seems rather anti-climactic. But we're just getting started...
So everyone knit your gauge swatch, check your needle, and cast on!! Next, we'll jump right into working the increases to form the yoke of the sweater!!

1 comments:

SnowCat said...

I'm using the silky wool. My gauge swatch straight off the needles was 7.5" for 40 sts with the 4mm needle, and 8" with a 4.5mm needle. Washing & blocking the swatch, I got gauge - 8" 40sts on a 4mm needle.

I'm a little scared it'll be small, but I'm going to plow in anyhow. I think once I get past the yoke and can see it, I'll relax. One can always frog and start over.